I needed to source a 32mm OD aluminum pipe to connect the rear hoses to the radiator. I also needed to splice in the aluminum block that holds the water temp sender. I bought a couple of nice stainless steel P clips to connect the pipe to the block, however these needed to be drilled out to fit the bolts. I managed to wreck one while drilling but I was able to fabricate a rubber lined P clip from aluminum in no time to replace it. This is the last bit of the cooling system (save for the missing radiator cap) and I can now fill it and test for any leaks before adding the coolant. Cooling system finished!
I sourced a second hand alternator using Parts Locator. Its from a 2005 Diahatsu Sirion (1.3litre). Its larger than expected but will fit the space available. I could have also got one from a Mira or Charade. Most important is the serpentine (ribbed) pulley which matches my belts. Just needs a plug connector which Geoff Mills is adding now. I now need to fabricate two brackets to mount it to the block.
I thought I should post a quick list of things I believe I need to finish to allow me to get to the first engine start:
Complete brake bleedFit final cooling pipes and hoses to expansion tank.Fit throttle pedalFit and wire alternatorFit engine wiring and connect in ECU and dash loomBuild and fit final wiring harness between body loom and engine loomFit exhaust and catalytic converterFill and test water and fuel systemsFit belt to pulleys
Probably a few more nights of work there ;)
ALL DONE! Actually it took another 6 weeks!
Things I missed that I had to also do:
- Wire up the water temp and oil pressure senders
- Fit an air cleaner
- Refit the ignition vacuum line
- Wire up the fuel pump
The addition of the M12x1.5 adapter meant I could connect the VDO oil pressure sender into the horizontal Raceline oil filter adapter. I fitted the Raceline adapter mainly to get the oil filter up inside the bottom line of the chassis, rather than having it hang down next to the sump. Less to get knocked off. I just need to pull the wiring to it now and connect it to the body loom.
As mentioned in a previous post about adapters, I have found an adapter to connect a fuel line to the service port on the SARD fuel pressure regulator. Ideally this would have been a hose tail with a tapered thread, but given the port was 1/8PT (JIS), I either needed to find an 8mm hose tail in this thread fitting or a 1/8 BSP. Next best thing was an adapter which came from Speco so I could use the SARD supplied hose tail. So the reg has a line in on the left, line to the fuel rail on the front, and a line to the return on the bottom. I will need to fit a pressure gauge in line on the hose to the fuel rail before I start it to ensure I have a max pressure of about 42 psi. I have fitted this to the bulkhead behind the passenger seat next to the fuel filter, and have finalised all of the hose connections. Fuel system - FINISHED!!
In order to fit the VDO senders for oil pressure and water temp, plus finish of the fuel regulator I needed to source some adapters. This resulted in a lot of Google research and I ended up at the Speco Automotive site. From top to bottom I got a M12x1.5 - 1/8NPT adapter for the Oil Pressure sender, a 1/8NPT (female) to 1/8BSP (male) adapter to fit the final hose tail to the service port on the SARD fuel regulator, and a 32mm radiator hose adapter that takes 1/8NPT VDO water temp sender. I fitted all of them together on the bench using Permatex thread sealer, before cleaning up and fitting to the car.
I made a boo boo.....I was working on the front of the car over the weekend doing some bits and pieces and figured I should hook the fan motor up to the loom. Only problem was I had already wired the connector from the fan to the thermal fan switch wiring. Simple matter to connect two new blade terminals onto the fan motor wiring and then install these in the connector and reroute the wiring. Also then I was able to correctly connect up the thermal fan switch correctly.
I needed to source a 32mm OD aluminum pipe to connect the rear hoses to the radiator. I also needed to splice in the aluminum block that holds the water temp sender. I bought a couple of nice stainless steel P clips to connect the pipe to the block, however these needed to be drilled out to fit the bolts. I managed to wreck one while drilling but I was able to fabricate a rubber lined P clip from aluminum in no time to replace it. This is the last bit of the cooling system (save for the missing radiator cap) and I can now fill it and test for any leaks before adding the coolant. Cooling system finished!
