Thermal Fan Switch - Part 2

I made a boo boo.....I was working on the front of the car over the weekend doing some bits and pieces and figured I should hook the fan motor up to the loom. Only problem was I had already wired the connector from the fan to the thermal fan switch wiring. Simple matter to connect two new blade terminals onto the fan motor wiring and then install these in the connector and reroute the wiring. Also then I was able to correctly connect up the thermal fan switch correctly.

Fuel System - Part 4

To finish the back of the fuel system off I need a few parts. Because I didn't use the Focus in tank pump, I have to add an external fuel pressure regulator, and obviously I also need a high pressure filter. The filter is an OEM part from Nissan used in the Sylvia and Pathfinder, and purchased more so because it fit inside this cool-> alloy bracket. It is mounted on the bulkhead behind the passengers seat. I have also purchased a SARD fuel pressure regulator. Because the Duratec uses a returnless fuel rail, I need to regulate pressure after the pump, then return excess fuel directly to the tank. This means the SARD regulator needs three barbed connectors (pump, rail, return). I have grabbed some Permatex thread sealant to ensure I have no leakages as well. The first two connectors went in easily and are now sealed.

The third connector goes in where there is a grub screw to seal off the third point. Only problem is the connector and the grub screw are 0.5mm different in diameter meaning the connector does not fit. So it has been returned to where I got it for a decision on how we move forward. So connecting up everything I do have, it looks like this. I have added protection to the fuel lines to prevent abrasion where they run close to chassis members. The fuel regulator will go left of the filter, and it has lines from the 

filter, to the rail (which is low down to
left of the diff, and a return to the tank (the top connector on the in-tank fuel pump with the yellow cap). You can also see the line from the middle of the pump to the charcoal canister, and in the last photo, the line from the canister that goes down and picks up the line to the front of the car which is to the EVAP valve. So to finish the fuel system I need the fuel regulator fitted, plumbing for this and a connector for the fuel pump wiring.

Fuel System - Part 3

This post is about the front parts of the fuel system, up in the engine bay. There are two hard lines that run from either side of the back of the car, through the transmission tunnel up to the right hand side of the engine bay. These connect to the fuel rail (from the tank), and the second one connects the Evaporative Purge (EVAP) valve which is the circular plastic thing in the top line between the two hose clamps to the charcoal canister. These are clamped in place and I will shorten the EVAP line (that goes to the left) which connects to the inlet 

manifold to get it lower and tighter.

The fuel lines are all rated to three times the pressure of the pump (about 143 psi max) and everything is finished off with stainless fuel line clamps. Thats the front bits finished.

Charcoal Canister

I am never happier than when I am making new pieces like custom brackets to fit onto the car. These bits come out of research, talking to other builders and just finding interesting ways to solve problems! This problem was the charcoal canister which is part of the fuel system. I had the stock canister from the Focus which is HUGE.  I was not sure that it would fit in the back near the fuel system where it needs to be, but a few pointers from other builders helped. I removed the stock 

aluminum breather from behind the drivers seat first. Then I fabricated an elevated aluminum bracket and riveted two 75mm stainless hose clamps onto it. I then mounted this to the bulkhead behind the drivers seat, isolating the bracket with rubber grommets. The canister had lots of large plastic mounting brackets on it already so I cut these off with the Dremel and cleaned up the cuts. The canister is slightly tapered but I am relying on some ridges on the canister to hold it in place.

Last this to do was to clamp the canister in place and attach the breather hose (on the top right), and the purge and tank lines (to the left and not yet connected). I have also realised I need to start thinking about how I mount things now from a maintenance perspective i.e. how will I access and service this part in the future once the car is fully built without having to dismantle the whole car! In that vein, I should be able to undo these clamps from below if needed.

Reservoir Lines

I had been battling with an ongoing issue with the braided hoses coming down from the reservoirs to the master cylinders "bleeding" fluid. This is apparently caused by a faulty connection on the hose and is not uncommon. Easily fixed by replacing these lines (clutch and brake) with new PVC wrapped, braided lines swapped by Meridian Motorsport. Made one mistake fitting them, which was one line was "upside down", in that it had a flange that was higher than the banjo mating face, that interfered with the mating face of the master cylinder preventing it from sealing. The reservoirs and lines are now holding fluid with no leakage so I can move on and finish the brake lines and bleed them.

Breather Tank

I want to run a closed cooling system, so I needed to fit a breather/expansion tank. This will catch overflow under pressure, and release it back into the system when the pressure lowers and creates a vacuum. Its a shiny aluminum 1 litre tank, and it will have lines in from the bleed, EGR and radiator cap. I will feed back into the thermostat inlet on the block. I have it mounted on a fabricated bracket up front under the nose cone as I don't expect to have to open it to often. I will probably mount a small catch tank under it as well.

Cooling System

A very productive day has been spent connecting up all of the cooling system hoses. I am using the stock water manifold on the back of the Duratec block as I am running out of budget and could not afford a custom water rail. The photo to the right shows the heater outlet sealed off (yes I will be cold in winter!) and the bleed line is plumbed back to the left side of the car where the expansion tank will be installed on the scuttle. I have since changed the screw clamp for a stock Ford spring clamp.

Next I needed to route the water outlet from the manifold back to the right side of the block and down the front to the radiator. A good look through the CBS Online catalogue in the UK solved this problem both quickly and elegantly. I can't recommend these guys enough. Not only do they have everything you could ever conceivably need to build a kit car, they are not expensive, and this order shipped from the UK on Tuesday and arrived on Friday the same week! The solution was a 180 degree radiator hose bend attached to the manifold.

I then connected this to a 150mm beaded aluminum tube that has a 42mm radiator cap mount welded into it. The design of this system is important as this is to be the highest point in the system meaning all air bubbles should rise to this point. The 150mm aluminum tube is then connected to a modified 90 degree  hose that routes the water line down the side of the block. I just now need to add a 580mm beaded aluminum pipe from here down to the radiator top hose. I will mount the water temp sender here as well.

The missing aluminum pipe will be connected to the block with rubber lined P-clips which will stabilise the entire hose system. I may also add an additional brace to the radiator cap tube. I am very impressed with how this has turned our given that it was designed on a web site and ordered without being able to test it first. From here it was down to the front to finish off the radiator outlet to thermostat line. I used a flexible 280mm hose from the radiator outlet, which threads through the steering rack.

This connects to the thermostat inlet hose via a 150mm aluminum beaded connector and three hose clamps. The hose here is 1mm bigger than the connector, so I am expecting leaks under pressure. As the hose just touches the down tube on the space frame, I have added a sacrificial liner to the space frame to protect the hose. Directly above the thermostat inlet is the 18mm inlet that normally connects to the return from the heater. I have been able to salvage the original hose and connectors for this, and after a few modifications been able to connect this hose back to the EGR valve and then on to where the expansion tank will sit. All in all today's work has been very fiddly, but very satisfying as I have been able to design and build something beautiful from new parts, and also salvage and recreate something I need from old parts.

Here on the left you can see where I have clamped off one of the T piece connectors and the main hose runs back under the inlet manifold to the EGR valve. I still need to fit the alternator in under all this, and the cable tie of the rest of the hoses and wiring looms. Next job is to start adding the front fuel and return lines for the fuel rail and the evaporative purge valve. As it was very cold day in Sydney, today was not with out many painful skinned knuckles and cuts on the hands and arms from reaching into tight engine spaces to mount hoses and clamps. I am ordering the fuel filters and regulators this week and hope to get those on next week. I will publish a To Do list soon of what needs to be done pre the first start.

Fuel System - Part 2

The stock Birkin fuel filler is pretty naff, and by all reports it leaks when the fuel sloshes about the tank when its full. One of the first extra parts I purchased when I got the kit was an Aero style lockable filler and cap. Its brushed satin aluminum, and has an unleaded fuel flap inside which is needed for ADR.  I have only just fitted it now as I needed to replace the filler hose with a flexible one, and the fuel tank needed to be in its final position and strapped down. To fit it, I needed to expand the size of the hole in the body to about 64mm diameter. Looks pretty cool!

Thermal Fan Switch

Long gap between posts. I have been very busy with work and some other projects around the house. I was also waiting for a bunch of parts to turn up for the cooling and fuel systems. 
A Thermal Fan Switch is needed to turn on the fan when the water hits a certain temperature. The switch is a Tridon TFS100, which runs a 90-80 range. I had to make up a small 2 wire connector to hook it into the front loom. A bit of teflon tape on the thread and it was in and tightened. 

Fuel System - Part 1

The fuel system will be interesting, as I have never connected anything like this before. Also with my history of leaking fluids on this build, this one is particularly dangerous! Easy parts first. I have remounted the fuel tank back in the car with the fuel pump installed. The two mounting straps are bolted in to hold it down. Next will be to get a plug for the fuel pump wiring, an inline filter, a pressure regulator, a smaller charcoal canister, fit the aero filler and all the fuel lines I need to connect it all up.

Front Brake Lines

With the radiator mounted, I was able to connect the new braided front brake lines to the calipers, and then up the mounting brackets behind the radiators. This then connects the braided lines into the hard lines that run back to the master cylinders. I need to check the routing on Steve's car to make sure that where I have fed the cables around the suspension it correct, and it won't rub on any moving parts or get fouled.

Radiator

 

I got the radiator back from being modified during the week. Here is a picture of it face (front) down on the bench. We are looking at the top of the radiator. The mods are required for the Duratec fitting, as the stock radiator is designed for a Zetec, and the water inlet and outlet are opposite. This mean moving the top inlet from the left to the right (you can see where the radiator has been welded up on the opposing side), and moving the bottom outlet from the right to the left. This also allows the outlet to clear the RHD steering rack.

Once unpacked, I could mount the radiator fan on the back of the radiator. This meant reversing the fan direction on the spindle, and bolting through the fins. The bolts are secured on the front with large washers and Nylocs. The wiring needs to point down to drain any condensation. I also needed to bend the bottom outlet a little to clear the body (when the hose is fitted). 

Then I was able to mount the radiator on the front of the car. It is secured with 4 bolts, but more importantly, it is spaced with 4 spacers that keep the radiator off the car. The top bolts also secure a pair of brake cable mounting brackets near the front wishbones which allows the front brake lines to be fitted. From here its a case of now adding the hoses and pipes to connect the radiator to the motor, wiring the fan to the body loom, and adding a thermostat switch for the fan, and the water temperature sender for the dash. The bolts on the fan will be shortened once I am done.

Horn

Not very exciting! As I didn't have the horn from my donor Focus, I purchased a new one from the local Repco store. It mounts nicely up front out of the way in amongst the chassis tubes, and uses an existing bolt from the front brace panel above the steering rack. As the front loom ran past the horn it was an easy job to connect up the wires and make it tidy. Hardest decision on this part was to select either a Low tone or a High tone horn. Went with Low :)

Ignition Immobiliser

One of the great things about building a car like the Birkin, is you join a community of like minded people, who participate in the build process with you by either offering assistance (spilling blood in the workshop), or advice and feedback. A fellow Birkin owner, Maurice sent me some ideas the other night that I was able to incorporate into my build and solve a problem I had yet to confront.
The Passive Anti Theft System (PATS or immobilizer) coil is a black plastic ring that fits around the ignition barrel in the Focus. It is wired back to the dash cluster and ECU, and it reads the immobilizer code in the key and allows the engine to start. The issue here is that I have added an aftermarket ignition which is much smaller than the PATS coil. I had considered mounting it somewhere else under the dash, or behind the centre console, and then just touch to key fob to it as I start the car. The problem with that approach is then I have to have the two keys separate which means I would ultimately lose one. 

Maurice's solution was elegantly simple and very effective. He suggested using a thin aluminum sleeve with a cut through it, fitted over the ignition barrel. The PATS coil is then fitted over the aluminum sleeve which gives a snug interference fit, and allows the PATS coil to sit flush with the ignition barrel. The whole thing is then tightened together using a stainless steel hose clamp. Great solution. Thanks Maurice!

Finishing the Engine

With the drivetrain finished, we could move onto to getting the engine physically finished. This involved putting back on all the parts that were removed while prepping the engine for installation.  Given the tight fit in the engine bay, its important to finish off areas that will be hard to get to later on. This meant installing the supply wiring for the battery, and all of the wiring to the starter motor. I have decided to add a master cut off switch for the electrical system, so have routed two cables from the battery and starter motor up to the scuttle where the master cut off switch will be mounted. We have also prepped the connections for the alternator, and cable tied the rest of the loom into its final location.

With the electrical work done we could start refitting the inlet manifold, crank case vent, throttle body and the vacuum hoses and sensors. The inlet manifold (right) is a "very" tight fit between the chassis, starter motor and idler pulley. It also has two dowel pins that need to be lined up in the head to locate the gaskets, and behind it are the water transfer hose that needs to be locked in place, and the crank case vent hose needs to be reconnected and clamped. Luckily I had Steve along to help, and with his double jointed wrists and fingers we were able to reconnect all of this with the minimum of blue language and only a little blood .... Steve's! (obligatory stunt foot in photo near wishbone).

From here we were able to refit the throttle body, and all of the other vacuum, hoses. The engine is now ready for the cooling hoses to be hooked up once the radiator is fitted. That just leave the wiring to be finished, the fuel system to be installed and the exhaust to be fitted before we think about firing it up for the first time.